The Flying Rhino Soars

The Record
Sunday, January 9, 2005
Corridor 9 Record
Northboro * Shrewsbury * Westboro

Flying Rhino Café soars high on her list by Jan Gottesman

Side Facts:
 Flying Rhino Café and Watering Hole, 278 Shrewsbury St., Worcester, (508) 757-1450.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday, 1 to 8 p.m.

RATINGS (out of possible 5):
Food: 4 star
Atmosphere 4 star
Service 4 star

WORCESTER – On a street known for Italian food, my husband and I have a favorite casual eatery, Flying Rhino. However, the food is not Italian. Instead, it is an eclectic mixture of international cuisine.

While we have had some good entrees, we usually stop in for the Wild Bites, a collection of appetizers that changes four times a year, and are always interesting and flavorful.

We always wish we could eat our way down the appetizer choices on one visit, but with just the two of us, we usually only manage three.

So when three friends came to eat with us on a recent weekend, we chose an appetizer dinner at Flying Rhino. While we did not manage to eat through the choices, we did manage eight of the 18 regular selections and the evening’s special (We chose the smaller size, so we would be able to get a larger selection).

We did not get to the portabello strudel ($6.95 for a small bite, $13.95 for a double bite), mushrooms, goat cheese, caramelized onions, green apple and walnuts, baked in Phyllo with a black cherry mustard sauce; humus ($3.95 and $7.95); steak and mushrooms ($7.95 and $14.95), a stew-like plate which we tried on a previous visit; and chicken fingers with spicy black cherry mustard sauce or buffalo seasoning ($7.95 and $14.95).

We started by each choosing one appetizer. Then my husband and I each chose a second appetizer. After we polished off all seven, and still had room, my husband and I carefully chose two more.

Granted, we almost ruined everything by chowing down on the fresh bread with the garlic and herb-flavored dipping sauce. But we saved room.

The tequila shrimp ($8.95) was a half dozen good-sized shrimp in a dark gravy spiked with a good deal of tequila. One person at the table mentioned it would be great over pasta. Me, I like the toast point on top saturated with the tasty sauce. This has a Latin flavor.

The lobster and scallop cakes with a house recipe tarter sauce on the side ($7.95) were two large cakes that were crispy on the outside, moist inside with a spicy bite. This had a Caribbean flavor.

Asparagus in Ambush ($6.95) was two large rolls of poached asparagus, Swiss cheese and Prosciutto, wrapped in a flour tortilla and topped with lobster sherry cream. It was a decent choice, with an almost Italian flavor.

Quesadilla with chili and cheddar ($6.95), with a side of sour cream, tomato and lettuce, lent a Southwestern flavor to our selections. The quesadillas were crispy on the outside, and the chili was more about flavor than heat.

Thai chicken wraps ($6.95) has become one of my favorite selections on the last two menus: Sauteed chicken, carrots and purple cabbage, are served with peanut and sesame soy sauces, with lettuce leaves for wrapping. This is a light dish that I will order as long as the restaurant is smart enough to leave it on the menu.

The pot stickers ($4.95) were six seasoned pork dumplings, which was a classic preparation.

Saganaki ($5.95) is battered fried feta cheese on tomato slices. It is a twist on the classic cheese sticks you get at so many restaurants these days. I really enjoyed this a lot.

The spinach and artichoke ravs ($5.95) were five triangles of phyllo with a blend of cheese in with the vegetables. This was like Greek spanikopita, but juicier.

Our final selection was the evening’s special, Beef Wellington ($7.95), which was steak tips with mushroom duxelle in phyllo. It was a good version of a classic dish (usually done with puff pastry).

This was an excellent meal that all five of us enjoyed. We each had our favorites, and we all agreed we would come back to Flying Rhino in a heart beat. 

The cost for the five of us, including a glass of Riesling ($5.95), a Wachusett Ale ($3.85), two cups of tea ($1.75 each) and a diet soda ($1.75, came to $81.48, plus tip.

BEST SPOT FOR A FIRST DATE

RHINO REVUE

The Flying Rhino Soars Again
By Bill Cory, Sunday Telegram 7/6/03

Neither are we.

The Flying Rhino has always been a jumpin’ place, and it continues to jump with bright, cleverly coordinated décor, a really different and ambitious menu and a lively, noisy crowd on busy nights. And that would be, of course, most nights. Tables sport colorful fabrics under glass, and a clay flowerpot of knives and forks plus paper napkins so substantial you could use them to wax a Buick.

Skimming over a fine list of soups, salads and sandwiches, we come to 16 specialty cocktails, which includes plenty of martini variations at a top price of $6.95. From a selection of 14 wines by the glass we chose a reliable Kendall Jackson chardonnay, almost at the top of the price list at $7.50. There are also a half-dozen drafts and 15 bottled brews. 

Every appetizer comes in two sizes; there’s a double-sized serving priced a little less than twice the basic charge. Hummus, chicken wings and fingers, calamari and crab cakes are among the familiar choices, but check the descriptions. Many are quite creative variations on the standard recipes. Come back for the more unusual options: shrimp and sweet potato cakes, scallops in Kahlua crème, sashimi tuna, spanikopita, chilled lemon basil salmon, sauteed shrimp and onions in tequila spiked gravy, and (our favorite name on the menu): Asparagus In Ambush. That means poached and wrapped in a flour tortilla with Swiss cheese and prosciutto, then sauced with lobster crème. All single appetizers are $2.95 to $8.95. Good luck choosing. 

Soup Specialist thought that the evening’s special, cheeseburger soup sounded great for a winter’s eve, but not too tempting in a heat wave. She opted for saganaki, a $5.95 plate of five crisp fried feta cheese blocks, which looked deep fried, rather than pan-fried as described. An interesting treatment for feta and a good taste, but the appetizer needed a sauce and didn’t come with one. We tried a little vinaigrette from the house salad; that worked well. Five good-sized coconut shrimp, $7.95, were butterflied and well-battered – crispy and tasty. Alongside were pineapple-mango salsa and a black cherry mustard sauce. We’d give the nod to the cherry mustard. 

HOT AND YEASTY 

We waited a few minutes while the fresh bread finished in the oven; it arrived really hot and yeasty and delicious. An olive oil dipping sauce with grated Romano cheese had a little too much red-pepper bite, but we learned to live with it to enjoy more of the bread. The Rhino’s dinner salad is plum tomato, red onion, cucumber and feta cheese combination with an excellent vinaigrette. We enjoyed the lively alternative to everyday mixed greens on the side. 

By now, there are hints to what may appear on the entree list. Well, there are prime ribs at $14.95 and $17.95, but everything else on the menu has more of a recipe than a description. Penne pasta in a vodka cream sauce I $10.95; an Asian stir fry is $12.95 and black pepper ravioli stuffed with asparagus and moscarpone cheese served with more asparagus and shitake mushrooms is $14.95. To any of these, add chicken for $2.95; beef or shrimp for $4.95. Another dozen or so entrees are each $13.95 (chicken souvlaki) to $22.95 for lobster ravioli. A few samples: yellowfin tuna crusted with pretzel crumbs, pan seared and topped with olive Dijon butter; chicken in Thai peanut sauce with broccoli over linguini; salmon rubbed with five spices and stir fried in a citrus ginger glaze with vegetables over Japanese noodles; veal with mushrooms, artichokes and spinach sauteed in lemon butter and chardonnay over linguini. 

I chose the Brazilian strip, $18.95, a 12-ounce sirloin with cilantro, lime and shrimp salsa. The steak could’ve been better trimmed, but had excellent flavor and was perfectly grilled and nicely complemented. The salsa did indeed contain plenty of shrimp and was a nice match with the steak. 

Soup Specialist’s choice of Chilean sea bass was even better. Chile has among the cleanest oceans and the finest fishing in the world, and sea bass from those waters if always a special treat. The spice-crushed fish was perfect, a substantial fillet, delicate and delicious. Both the spices and the pineapple-mango salsa highlighted the fish, which was as nice as any we’ve tasted in the past year of more. 

A GOOD NAME

We felt constrained to limit our dessert consumption to chocolate decadence ala mode $6.95 and a healthy piece of homemade carrot cake for $5.50. “Decadence” is a good name for our warm, multitextured chocolate cake/soufflé/brownie with fudge and good vanilla ice cream. It’s a binge dessert; if you’re going to go for it all, go for this treat. 

If you prefer to kid yourself that carrot cake is somehow “healthy,” then it’s a good idea to indulge in a slice at the Rhino. It’s big and fresh and not at all heavy – just wonderful. It’s a delicious cake with lots of icing and terrific flavor and shredded carrots inside to soothe the conscience. Either choice justifies leaving room for dessert. 

Our very complete and satisfying dinner for two was a good value at $65.00 plus beverages, tax and gratuity. 

The Flying Rhino does a great job with friendly service, unusual offerings and excellent food. We’re ready to go back. Soon. Tomorrow would be good.

DINING OUT

FLYING RHINO CAFE AND WATERING HOLE

We started with Wild Bites, an array of appetizers available in two sizes, "bite” and "double bite.” Co-owner Paul Barber loves to eat appetizers when he dines out as a way of sampling things on the menu. So, the owners decided to offer small portions of three different appetizers.

For the mixed grill – skewers of chicken souvlaki, swordfish satay and teriyaki steak, served over a bed of rice – we went with the double bite, which offered tow of each ($16.95). We also sampled the calamari, but went for the single serving ($6.95)

As we waited for the food, we second guessed our decision, and thought perhaps we should have chosen just a "bite” of the mixed grill, which provides one of each skewer ($9.95). But, when it arrived, we saw that the skewers are short, and the fish and meat are cut into bite-size pieces. It wasn’t too much, even more so because it was so good. The chicken was marinated with garlic, lemon and olive oil, and, like the steak and swordfish, was tender and moist. The single serving of calamari was a generous helping, but it didn’t matter. The calamari was the low point of the evening – it was rubbery and not very warm, despite appearing overdone. It was served with sautéed spinach, banana peppers and sprinkled with Romano cheese.

For the main course, we tried sautéed scallops, served with snow peas, diced tomatoes and capicola ham in a vermouth butter sauce over penne pasta ($15.95). We didn’t expect to like everything served with the scallops as much as the seafood itself, but we did. The sauce was outstanding, but the food didn’t swim in it. The scallops were plentiful. The Brazilian Strip ($16.95), a 12-ounce New York strip, is a standout thanks to the "Latin rub” with which it is seasoned. The rub contains garlic and cumin, two spices frequently used in Brazilian cooking, but "that’s as much as I’ll divulge,” Barber said. The strip may also be ordered "naked, as the menu puts it, but why would you want to? The steak is served with fried onions topped with herb butter, rice and black beans.

The prime rib, available as a 12-ounce "English cut” ($13.95) or a 16-ounce chef’s cut ($16.95), was tender and flavorful. It’s served with vegetables and the house potato, which, on this day, was wonderful – sweet potato and Idaho potato mashed together. The house potato and the house rice change daily.

To go along with dinner, we decided to try the pitcher of sangria ($15.95) which is made tableside. Besides the usual wine (red or white, we chose red), brandy and oranges, this one had champagne and dry sherry. It wasn’t quite sweet enough; perhaps fruit juice, sugar and even more fruit slices are in order.

The sparse dessert menu featured something-called Roasted Rhino Horn. The menu intentionally doesn’t explain just what it is and, of course, we were intrigued. As it turns out, it’s a roasted banana with brown sugar, cinnamon and, usually, whipped cream. But alas, when we tried it, they were fresh out of the whipped cream. Though the plate was drizzled nicely with chocolate and mango sauce, the banana, sitting there in its now brown jacket, didn’t look very appealing. The whipped cream probably would help that, too. But we enjoyed the banana, which was soft, with brown sugar and cinnamon on top of the fruit itself.

The Flying Rhino opened last month in the old Crescent City Steakhouse. The owners kept a handful of staff, mostly kitchen help, from Crescent City. Barber’s co-owners are his wife, Melina Barber, an artist responsible for the hand-painted tablecloths and stained glass windows, and Kathy Kostas. Paul Barber most recently worked for American Hospital Concept Inc., running the Berkshire Grill in Framingham and the Ground Round before that.

And the name? "I wanted something that sparked curiosity in people,” Paul Barber said. "We didn’t want a name that says Italian, that says steak or seafood. It’s very hard to say no to our restaurant.

Eclectic cuisine comes to Shrewsbury Street

FLYING RHINO BY MARGARET LeROUX

We’ll try some other appealing appetizers-spanakopita ($4.95; $8.95), tequila shrimp ($7.95; $13.95), and sashimi tuna ($5.95; $9.95) – on our next visit. 

For a small café, Rhino offers an impressive list of red and white wines by the glass. And they’re not all chardonnays and cabernets. We enjoyed a Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc ($6.25) and Casa Lapostolle ($6.25), a Chilean cab. You can also order a pitcher of sangria mixed at your table ($15.98) or lots of martini variations. 

Entrees come with a small salad of tomato slices, feta cheese, and onions in a balsamic vinaigrette, but there are several dinner salads, including a spinach Caesar and a Shanghai, an Oriental blend topped with chow mein noodles. 

My choice was Chilean sea bass (market price); a fillet garnished with a few steamed mussels and shitake mushrooms and topped with a delicate pesto cream sauce. The fish was light and fresh, the sauce not at all heavy. I was pleasantly surprised by the tasty basmati rice pilaf that accompanied. Usually rice pilaf is a boring, tasteless mound. Not so here. 

Another his was Thai peanut chicken ($14.95) sautéed with broccoli and peanuts in a curry sauce over linguine. Lots of boneless chicken; the sauce was both sweet and spicy. I loved the sample of penne a la vodka ($10.95) I cajoled form one of my friends. 

The tomato sauce was splashed with vodka, lightened with cream, and included fresh spinach, Romano cheese, and red pepper. Rhino’s ratatouille ($11.95) is a variation on the French classic. Here, eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onions, and garlic are roasted in a tomato sauce and served over linguine; it tastes richer than you’d expect. 

Steak lovers should try the Brazilian strip ($16.95) seasoned with Latin rub and fried with onions. A simple, roasted prime rib ($13.95) looked good, too. There’s a long list of wraps and sandwiches for lunch and late-night dining. White Rhino, a mix of smoked turkey, bacon, cheddar cheese, spinach, and cranberry mustard ($6.50), and crab and avocado wrap, with real crabmeat, Asian spices, and nori ($7.95) were very tempting. 

Desserts are listed on clay pots on each table. The pots also serve as silverware holders. We passed on fried rhino – fried banana – but share a yummy piece of zebra mousse cake ($3.95), layers of dark chocolate filled with chocolate mousse and tipped with white and dark chocolate. Our bill totaled $95.71 before tip. 

In a phone interview after our visit, I asked one of Rhino’s owners Paul Barber (he and his wife, Melina, are partners with Kathy Kostas) about the origins of the rhino concept. 

"We wanted something that would spark peoples’ curiosity.” Barber says, 

"and we loved the idea of an unusual animal as our focus. Barber is a veteran restaurant manager who lists the Oyster Club in New Hampshire, Cappuccino’s in Boston, The Berkshire Grill and Tin Alley Grill in Framingham on his resume. 

"We wanted our own place to have diversity, and we want people to have a good time when they come here,” Barber adds. "We didn’t want to be pigeonholed as just another steak, seafood, or pasta place.” 

It looks like Rhino has found a niche on Shrewsbury Street, where a little diversity certainly makes the area richer.

T&G

SHREWSBURY ST. COOKING WITH SLEEK CARS, "TASTE, NEW RESTAURANTS AND MAYBE MERCHANTS’ SIGN

Barber spent the past four years before launching the Flying Rhino managing a Ground Round in Framingham. Last fall, he and his wife Melina (Worcester girl) and his partner, Kathy Costas, got serious about starting a restaurant. Melina Barber also attended BU, "for sculpting, and did all of the interior design for the Flying Rhino right down to Picking out the tablecloths and creating funky wall artwork for the women’s bathroom (the female with vines coming out of her head has been dubbed "the Goddess of Gossip’) Kostas, he said "has bartended and waitressed for more than twelve years, and is well connected in the restaurant business. As a crowning touch Barber hired a young chef, Andrew Etre, at the last minute "to run the kitchen and be creative with our specials. He’s done a fantastic job.” He says of Etre.

Initially the Barbers and Kostas were going to start "a place with just appetizers, a fun place like an American tapest bar” with a very limited menu of mostly finger food- reflecting the Barbers’ love of mix and match horsd'ouevres. They’ve retained some of that approach with their "single bite” and "Double bite” appetizers while also offering a diversified menu that includes a little Latin, a little Brazilian, a little Asian, a little American. The Roys, who have checked out the Rhino, say it’s "fabulous.”

Rhino art is everywhere, chose the rhinoceros on a whim but say "we could have called it The Flying Hippo. It doesn’t matter. It’s all curiosity. Let me go try that place, people will say as they drive by, he reasons. "That’s the idea. We’re in a sense a "show”. We’re on stage” The Rhino, he says seeks to entertain by serving food 13 to 14 hours a day and providing a casual comfortable setting for patrons to enjoy.

THE FLYING RHINO SOARS WITH TOP-NOTCH GLOBAL CUISINE

DINING AROUND

Admit it – just hearing the name of the restaurant, The Flying Rhino, immediately piques your curiosity. What kind of restaurant could it be? What kind of food does it serve?

Figuring that enough curiosity has been piqued to cause a stampede to this restaurant, my companion and I ventured forth on a Monday evening to find out.

The interior has a bit of a southwestern feel. The walls and pillars have been sponge-painted in shades of saffron and cinnamon. Hand-painted tablecloths underneath glass tops add a rainbow of sherbet colors to the room. Decorative touches feature art motifs from around the world, including African masks, Indian elephants, a cotton quilt and whimsical paintings. A pastel of a dancing rhino, drawn by an elementary school child, captures the sense of playfulness suggested by the restaurant’s name.

So, how would the cuisine live up to this atmosphere? My companion and I turned to the menu, which, incidentally, is bordered with interesting facts about rhinos. The emphasis is on diversity, with flavors associated with Asian, Italian, Mexican and Greek cooking to name just a few.

All the items, whether soups, salads, appetizers, sandwiches or entrees, include creative touches. The wildebeest sandwich pairs roast beef on a French baguette with Wasabi mayo ($6.95). An appetizer of chicken fingers ($5.95) is served with black cherry mustard. Five salads are listed, from the house salad ($3.95) of mixed greens, red peppers, carrots, and cucumbers in honey mustard dressing to the more unusual Shanghai salad ($5.95). The Shanghai salad includes a whole garden of mixed greens, snow peas, red peppers, carrots, scallions, zucchini, celery and been sprouts, tossed with rice, Mandarin orange dressing, and topped with chow mein noodles.

Just as tempting is the lengthy list of appetizers, which come in bite or double bite sizes. Familiar items include chicken wings ($5.95) and hummus ($2.95). Global cuisine is offered in sashimi tuna ($5.95), chili quesadilla ($6.95), Greek spinach pie ($4.95), and saganaki, fried feta cheese on tomato slices ($5.95)

While my companion and I considered the many choices, we were served wonderful warm crusty bread with garlic and red pepper oil for dipping.

Finally, we placed our orders. My companion began the meal with a cup of Mediterranean fish soup ($1.95). The soup was filled with chunks of fish and tomatoes in an excellent lightly seasoned broth. To experience as many global flavors as possible, we also decided to share the mixed grill ($9.95), skewers of swordfish satay, teriyaki steak and chicken souvlaki served over rice.

This appetizer was large enough for an entrée. Instead of thin slices as we had expected the three skewers held thick strips on a large bed of rice. Both the grilled chicken and swordfish had just enough tang of marinade to make them interesting. The teriyaki beef was also tender and juicy.

After our first courses, we were served demi salads of cucumber and tomato slices with feta cheese and red onion in a balsamic vinaigrette.

The menu lists 12 entrees divided among seafood, beef, chicken and vegetarian. Specials on the evening we dined included Cajun steak ($15.98) and grilled swordfish ($18). A house specialty is slow-roasted prime rib ($13.95 for 12 oz. and $16.95 for 16 oz).

My companion considered the ratatouille made with eggplant, zucchini, onion and peppers served over linguine ($11.95) before finally deciding on the penne a la vodka with portabella mushrooms ($13.90). This creative dish featured a large portion of penne pasta and wilted spinach in a tomato cream sauce laced with vodka. Crushed red pepper added a strong peppery flavor. My companion was very pleased, remarking that all the flavors worked well together.

Equally good was my selection of Thai peanut chicken with broccoli ($13.95), which offered a different twist to traditional Thai food. Linguine replaced noodles, but the creamy curry sauce and peanuts carried the Thai flavor. For me, the curry was just right, spicy but not too hot.

To conclude our dinner, we each selected one of the four desserts, which include New York cheesecake and key lime pie. My companion chose the zebra mousse pie ($3.95), made with white and dark chocolate. I selected the rhino horn – a grilled banana topped with ice cream ($2.95) Both were good, but our vote went to the banana, a light and suprisingly tasty ending to a filling satisfying dinner.

Dinner for two came to $52.15, including the tax but not the gratuity.

Flying Rhino Cafe and Watering Hole, 278 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester (508)757-1450

Flying Rhino Cafe and Watering Hole, 278 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester (508)757-1450